loops, knots and herringbones

Plain sewing stitches are utilitarian.  They are used for joining, darning, hemming, making button-holes and loops.  These stitches are also ornamental, used in decorative needlework, embroideries, openwork.   Repeated herringbone stitches, used for hemming become decorative motifs; button-hole or blanket stitches, a border; knot stitches a pattern.

Through Couture, Dupré experiments with plain stitches, playing with scale and changing materials. Drawing with stitch, repeating a gesture – a means through which one learns.  Reconfiguring and experimenting as stitchers have always done.

 


Tissu provençal, 2018. Installation detail.
Closed herringbone stitch with loop/Point d’arête (Constance Howard reconfiguration). Photo © Carl Fox, Photography


Couture de raccord,
2018. Installation detail.
Reconfigured antique seam/Surjet antique (couture de raccord). Photo © Carl Fox, Photography 

Point de chausson
,
2018. Installation. Photo © Carl Fox, Photography


Point de chausson,
2018. Installation detail.
Stitch: Herringbone stitch (front and back)/Point de chausson (endroit et envers). Photo © Carl Fox, Photography 
Point de chausson, 2018. Installation detail.
Stitch: Herringbone stitch (front and back)/Point de chausson (endroit et envers).  Photo © Carl Fox, Photography

Red knots,
2019.  Wall piece. Stitch: French knot/Point d’armes noué. Photo © Carl Fox, Photography

Red knots,
2019.  Wall piece detail. Photo © Carl Fox, Photography

Red loops,
2019.  Wall piece. Photo © Carl Fox, Photography

Red loops,
2019.  Wall piece.
Stitch: Button loop blanket stitch/Point de bride festonnée. Photo © Carl Fox, Photography

Paulette Berthelot, Cahier de couture, page, 1937-38.
Stitches: Dressmaking seam/Point de surjet
Hemming stitch: Herringbone/Point croisé. Images © Françoise Dupré Archive  

Tissu provençal, 2018. Installation detail. Stitch: closed herringbone stitch with loop/Point d’arête (Constance Howard reconfiguration). Silk thread and Washi (Japanese paper), Kozo (mulberry).

Couture de raccord, 2018. Installation detail. Stitch: Reconfigured antique seam/Surjet antique (couture de raccord).  Polyester thread and Washi (Japanese paper), Kozo (mulberry).

Point de chausson, 2018. Installation detail. Stitch: Herringbone stitch (front and back)/Point de chausson (endroit et envers).  Silk thread and Washi (Japanese paper), Kozo (mulberry).

Red knots, 2019.  Wall piece. Stitch: French knot/Point d’armes noué. Washi (Japanese paper), Kozo (mulberry); DMC Broder Spécial, cotton embroidery thread; dressmaking steel pins. 0m97 H x 0m60 W x 0m03D

Red loops, 2019.  Wall piece. Stitch: Button loop blanket stich/Point de bride festonnée. Khadi paper (cotton, India); DMC Broder Spécial, cotton embroidery thread; ink; dressmaking steel pins. 0m31 square

Paulette Berthelot, Cahier de couture, page, 1937-38. Patching/rapiéçage Top sewing in a patch/Pièce posée avec une couture rabattue Stitches: Dressmaking seam/Point de surjet Hemming stitch: Herringbone/Point d’arête