loops, knots and herringbones

Plain sewing stitches are utilitarian.  They are used for joining, darning, hemming, making button-holes and loops.  These stitches are also ornamental, used in decorative needlework, embroideries, openwork.   Repeated herringbone stitches, used for hemming become decorative motifs; button-hole or blanket stitches, a border; knot stitches a pattern.

Through Couture, Dupré experiments with plain stitches, playing with scale and changing materials. Drawing with stitch, repeating a gesture – a means through which one learns.  Reconfiguring and experimenting as stitchers have always done.

Photos © Carl Fox, Photography  

Tissu provençal, 2018, installation detail.

Stitch: closed herringbone stitch with loop/Point d’arête (Constance Howard reconfiguration)

Silk thread and Washi (Japanese paper), Kozo (mulberry).

Couture de raccord, 2018, installation detail.

Stitch: Reconfigured antique seam/Surjet antique (couture de raccord). 

Polyester thread and Washi (Japanese paper), Kozo (mulberry).

Point de chausson, 2018, installation detail.

Stitch: Herringbone stitch (front and back)/Point de chausson (endroit et envers). 

Silk thread and Washi (Japanese paper), Kozo (mulberry).

Red knots, 2019.  Wall piece.

Stitch: French knot/Point d’armes noué.

Washi (Japanese paper), Kozo (mulberry); DMC Broder Spécial, cotton embroidery thread; dressmaking steel pins.

0m97 H x 0m60 W x 0m03D

Red loops, 2019.  Wall piece.

Stitch: Button loop blanket stich/Point de bride festonnée

Khadi paper (cotton, India); DMC Broder Spécial, cotton embroidery thread; ink; dressmaking steel pins.

0m31 square

Paulette Berthelot, Cahier de couture, page, 1937-38.

Patching/rapiéçage

Top sewing in a patch/Pièce posée avec une couture rabattue

Stitches: Dressmaking seam/Point de surjet

Hemming stitch: Herringbone/Point d’arête